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One Week in Dalmatia – Part II

Check out Part I for the run down on Dubrovnik and Split.

Day 5: Korčula

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The view from our Airbnb digs

Why, oh why didn’t we stay more than one day in Korčula??

After exploring the coastal cities of Dubrovnik and Split, it was time to hit up a few islands! Islands in the Adriatic – what could be better? Not much, as it turns out. When first planning our trip we were hesitant to visit Korčula, often described as a mini Dubrovnik and feared its city would be too similar to the other. I can’t recall how or why we chose to ignore those worries, but I’m glad we did. After a shortish ferry ride from Split, we were greeted dockside by our Airbnb hosts – Maria, her young son Marco, and her father, known to us henceforth as The [Nutty] Professor. They generously gave us a lift to their beautiful family home, a short drive away, and what a home it was! Our room was simple, but the views and “backyard” were absolutely breathtaking. I immediately regretted that we were staying for only one night. After settling in, we walked to the island’s charming old town and dined al fresco at Adio Mare, per Maria’s suggestion. Our meal and the setting were quite delightful with a great view of the rumored home of Marco Polo (and family).

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Following lunch, we hurried back to our room to sunbathe on the glorious patio before losing the sun. I could have bounced between my lounge chair and the cool water for daaaaaays. I only wish I’d had a float – I may have never returned.

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Climbing trepidatiously (mind the freaking huge gaps)

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After sunbathing we headed back to the old town for a bit more exploring and a light dinner. We stopped by St. Mark’s and climbed the bell tower for a 360 view of the city. The views were incredible, but I was totally freaked out by the “large person-sized” gaps I felt I could have fallen through. I was hanging on for dear life, and when the bells went off, I was glad I wasn’t on the ladder climbing down.

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The rumored home of the explorer, Marco Polo

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A near death experience calls for a cocktail, so we headed to Bar Massimo for more views and likely overpriced drinks. This sort of place really irks some travelers, but when I’m on vacation, I care not. Bring on the tourist trap! Unfortunately, accessing the rooftop bar required climbing another ladder. We likely would have enjoyed more than one drink had it not been for the fact that the prospect of climbing down the ladder tipsy seemed like poor decision making. I do wonder how many accidents occur there. After drinks and a bit more strolling, we headed to Wine and Snacks for, well, wine and snacks. Nary a cheese plate went unconsumed during our travels. Our waiter was delightful, and very patient each time we pulled him away from That Big Soccer Game he and everyone else in the country was watching. Was it Germany vs. France? It seemed like a big deal.

Sleep: Studio Apartments More 1 via Airbnb (these names kill me)
See: St. Mark’s Cathedral Bell Tower for beautiful views
Eat: Adio Mare (try the makaruni – it’s a local speciality); Cocktail Bar Massimo for a drink with a view; Grk wine – produced only on the island

Day 6: Mljet

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Another ferry, another island. This is the life. Mljet is a short jaunt from Korčula by ferry, and one-third of the island is a national park. It was time to get our nature on! After dropping our bags at our vintage hotel (the room was a time capsule) we grabbed a quick pizza lunch at the hotel’s restaurant, rented a few bikes, and headed into the park.

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Dominated by two strikingly blue saltwater lakes, Malo jerezo and Veliko jerezo, we rode around both, ooh-ing, aahing, and snapping pictures every five feet. The ride was relatively easy after a somewhat hilly start and the lakes were SO FREAKING BEAUTIFUL. After riding some distance, we parked our bikes and took a small boat across the lake to St. Mary’s Island, home to a 12th century Benedictine monastery. This seemed to be the place to eat lunch and swim, however we were hoping for a bit more seclusion. So after exploring a bit, we hopped back on the boat and rode our bikes to a quiet bay. We swam, we napped, we swam some more. I knew this would be my last plunge in Croatia’s water, so it was with a heavy heart when I finally dried off and remounted my bicycle.

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After exiting the Park, and returning our bikes, we stopped for a little ice cream and finally made it back to the hotel for much needed showers.

Dinner options on the island were sparse, but we eventually settled on Konoba Nine, a short walk from the hotel. Most of the restaurants here catered to tourists and had almost identical menus, a shame. The atmosphere was friendly (except for another guest’s CRAZY dog) and the views, unsurprisingly, were beautiful.

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See: MlJet National Park and St. Mary’s Island

Travel Tips

  • Bring an inflatable raft if you plan to spend any time in the water. The beaches aren’t particularly comfortable, and the water is really the place to be.
  • Water shoes! We encountered many an urchin and spiny rock while swimming. I hate them too, but I probably would have hated stepping on an urchin more.

 

One Week in Dalmatia – Part I

If sun, wine, turquoise waters, and ancient palaces are your thing, then the Dalmatian Coast will not disappoint!  In July we headed to magical Croatia for a week-long excursion along its southern Coast.

Days 1 – 2, & 7: Dubrovnik

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We began our journey in the picturesque city of Dubrovnik, the Pearl of the Adriatic. Founded in the 7th century, this incredibly well-preserved medieval city will likely remain one of our favorite destinations of all time.

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Lokrum

Exhausted from many hours of travel, and at the suggestion of our innkeeper, upon checking in we headed straight for the island of Lokrum, just 600 meters and a short ferry ride off the coast of Dubrovnik’s old harbor. A popular swimming destination for the locals, Lokrum is a tiny island with rocky shores and a pine-forested interior. We were advised to steer clear of the ‘naked Germans’ who congregate on the eastern shore, and so veered south to a popular sun-bathing locale. We had hoped for a comfortable, sandy beach, but were greeted instead by rocks, rocks, and more rocks. This didn’t seem to deter anyone else from spreading their towels and taking a nap, so we joined in. Maybe it was the jet-lag, or the fact that I’m a champion sleeper, but I had no problem snoozing on my bed of stones. We noticed many folks traveled to the ‘beach’ with a yoga mat, providing more comfortable lounging accommodations. Mental note for next time…DSC_0146

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Bar Buza just below the wall – stop by for a drink with an amazing view day or night

On day two we rose early and headed straight for the city walls. Walking atop the ancient fortifications provided the most stunning views of the sunbaked limestone and terracotta city, set against the blues of the sky and sea.

The days were quite warm, but shaded alleyways came to the rescue when in need of a break (as did the wine). And like many European cities, Dubrovnik comes alive at night – the perfect time to people watch, enjoy fresh seafood, and drink in the architecture on display (and more WINE).

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Tasty treats from D’Vino wine bar – here we tried the Grk, Rukatac, and Malvasia wines
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Sleep: The View of Dubrovnik via airbnb
See: Dubrovnik City Walls | Lokrum island | Dubrovačka kuća for beautiful arts and crafts | Bačan Handmade Products for family-made embroidery, needlecraft (and lively conversation with the proprietor)
Eat: D’Vino Wine Bar for wine and cheese | Buza Bar for drinks with a view | Taj Mahal for Bosnian fare | Buzara (we had a tasty version at Konoba NAVA)

Days 3 – 4: Split

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The Riva

Almost everyone we spoke with upon hearing of our plans to visit Croatia immediately asked if we were going to Split. We knew this was a destination that couldn’t be missed! After two days in Dubrovnik, we hopped on a bus for a 4-hour scenic drive up the coast to Dalmatia’s most cosmopolitan (and second largest) city.

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Centered around the Roman Palace of the Emperor Diocletian, Split is a sparkling, bustling city full of crumbling walls, high-end shops, wine bars, and young, fashionable Croatians.

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An ancient hermitage nestled among the cliffs in Marjan

While in Split we people-watched while strolling along the Riva, meandered through the ancient palace (stopping in shops, wine bars, and historic attractions), and hiked over Marjan hill to Kasjuni beach for an afternoon in the sun.

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Sleep: SPLIT Charming Apartment inside Palace via airbnb
See: Hike Marjan for a break from the hustle | tour the Ethnographic Museum for a lesson in croatian folklore | catch a concert – there are many!
Eat: Marcvs MArvlvs caffe bar for cozy drinks (try some Rakija!) | Uje Oil Bar for freaking amazing dessert | Paradox for more wine and cheese | Villa Spiza for a hearty lunch

Travel Tips

  • Steps. So…many…steps. Comfortable, flat shoes are a must for navigating the uneven limestone walkways and seemingly endless sets of stairs. How the local women wear heels is a mystery to me, and I’m no shoe wuss.
  • Light clothing, y’all! I underestimated just how warm Croatian days would be, and we live in a warm, muggy climate. I should have packed lighter, more breathable sundresses and tanks. We were both sweaty and disgusting by noon on most days.
  • Pack light. Those steps we mentioned? Get ready to haul your suitcase up several flights.

In Part II we’re off to the islands of Korcula and Mljet!