If sun, wine, turquoise waters, and ancient palaces are your thing, then the Dalmatian Coast will not disappoint!  In July we headed to magical Croatia for a week-long excursion along its southern Coast.

Days 1 – 2, & 7: Dubrovnik

We began our journey in the picturesque city of Dubrovnik, the Pearl of the Adriatic. Founded in the 7th century, this incredibly well-preserved medieval city will likely remain one of our favorite destinations of all time.

Exhausted from many hours of travel, and at the suggestion of our innkeeper, upon checking in we headed straight for the island of Lokrum, just 600 meters and a short ferry ride off the coast of Dubrovnik’s old harbor. A popular swimming destination for the locals, Lokrum is a tiny island with rocky shores and a pine-forested interior. We were advised to steer clear of the ‘naked Germans’ who congregate on the eastern shore, and so veered south to a popular sun-bathing locale. We had hoped for a comfortable, sandy beach, but were greeted instead by rocks, rocks, and more rocks. This didn’t seem to deter anyone else from spreading their towels and taking a nap, so we joined in. Maybe it was the jet-lag, or the fact that I’m a champion sleeper, but I had no problem snoozing on my bed of stones. We noticed many folks traveled to the ‘beach’ with a yoga mat, providing more comfortable lounging accommodations. Mental note for next time…

On day two we rose early and headed straight for the city walls. Walking atop the ancient fortifications provided the most stunning views of the sunbaked limestone and terracotta city, set against the blues of the sky and sea.

The days were quite warm, but shaded alleyways came to the rescue when in need of a break (as did the wine). And like many European cities, Dubrovnik comes alive at night – the perfect time to people watch, enjoy fresh seafood, and drink in the architecture on display (and more WINE).

Sleep: The View of Dubrovnik via airbnb

See: Dubrovnik City Walls | Lokrum island | Dubrovačka kuća for beautiful arts and crafts | Bačan Handmade Products for family-made embroidery, needlecraft (and lively conversation with the proprietor)

Eat: D’Vino Wine Bar for wine and cheese | Buza Bar for drinks with a view | Taj Mahal for Bosnian fare | Buzara (we had a tasty version at Konoba NAVA)

Days 3 – 4: Split

Almost everyone we spoke with upon hearing of our plans to visit Croatia immediately asked if we were going to Split. We knew this was a destination that couldn’t be missed! After two days in Dubrovnik, we hopped on a bus for a 4-hour scenic drive up the coast to Dalmatia’s most cosmopolitan (and second largest) city.

Centered around the Roman Palace of the Emperor Diocletian, Split is a sparkling, bustling city full of crumbling walls, high-end shops, wine bars, and young, fashionable Croatians.

While in Split we people-watched while strolling along the Riva, meandered through the ancient palace (stopping in shops, wine bars, and historic attractions), and hiked over Marjan hill to Kasjuni beach for an afternoon in the sun.

Sleep: SPLIT Charming Apartment inside Palace via airbnb

See: Hike Marjan for a break from the hustle | tour the Ethnographic Museum for a lesson in croatian folklore | catch a concert – there are many!

Eat: Marcvs MArvlvs caffe bar for cozy drinks (try some Rakija!) | Uje Oil Bar for freaking amazing dessert | Paradox for more wine and cheese | Villa Spiza for a hearty lunch

Travel Tips

• Steps. So…many…steps. Comfortable, flat shoes are a must for navigating the uneven limestone walkways and seemingly endless sets of stairs. How the local women wear heels is a mystery to me, and I’m no shoe wuss.
• Light clothing, y’all! I underestimated just how warm Croatian days would be, and we live in a warm, muggy climate. I should have packed lighter, more breathable sundresses and tanks. We were both sweaty and disgusting by noon on most days.
• Pack light. Those steps we mentioned? Get ready to haul your suitcase up several flights.

In Part II we’re off to the islands of Korcula and Mljet!