Check out Part I for the run down on Dubrovnik and Split.

Day 5: Korčula

Why, oh why didn’t we stay more than one day in Korčula??

After exploring the coastal cities of Dubrovnik and Split, it was time to hit up a few islands! Islands in the Adriatic – what could be better? Not much, as it turns out. When first planning our trip we were hesitant to visit Korčula, often described as a mini Dubrovnik and feared its city would be too similar to the other. I can’t recall how or why we chose to ignore those worries, but I’m glad we did. After a shortish ferry ride from Split, we were greeted dockside by our Airbnb hosts – Maria, her young son Marco, and her father, known to us henceforth as The [Nutty] Professor. They generously gave us a lift to their beautiful family home, a short drive away, and what a home it was! Our room was simple, but the views and “backyard” were absolutely breathtaking. I immediately regretted that we were staying for only one night. After settling in, we walked to the island’s charming old town and dined al fresco at Adio Mare, per Maria’s suggestion. Our meal and the setting were quite delightful with a great view of the rumored home of Marco Polo (and family).

Following lunch, we hurried back to our room to sunbathe on the glorious patio before losing the sun. I could have bounced between my lounge chair and the cool water for daaaaaays. I only wish I’d had a float – I may have never returned.

After sunbathing we headed back to the old town for a bit more exploring and a light dinner. We stopped by St. Mark’s and climbed the bell tower for a 360 view of the city. The views were incredible, but I was totally freaked out by the “large person-sized” gaps I felt I could have fallen through. I was hanging on for dear life, and when the bells went off, I was glad I wasn’t on the ladder climbing down.

A near death experience calls for a cocktail, so we headed to Bar Massimo for more views and likely overpriced drinks. This sort of place really irks some travelers, but when I’m on vacation, I care not. Bring on the tourist trap! Unfortunately, accessing the rooftop bar required climbing another ladder. We likely would have enjoyed more than one drink had it not been for the fact that the prospect of climbing down the ladder tipsy seemed like poor decision making. I do wonder how many accidents occur there. After drinks and a bit more strolling, we headed to Wine and Snacks for, well, wine and snacks. Nary a cheese plate went unconsumed during our travels. Our waiter was delightful, and very patient each time we pulled him away from That Big Soccer Game he and everyone else in the country was watching. Was it Germany vs. France? It seemed like a big deal.

Sleep: Studio Apartments More 1 via Airbnb (these names kill me)

See: St. Mark’s Cathedral Bell Tower for beautiful views

Eat: Adio Mare (try the makaruni – it’s a local speciality); Cocktail Bar Massimo for a drink with a view; Grk wine – produced only on the island

Day 6: Mljet

Another ferry, another island. This is the life. Mljet is a short jaunt from Korčula by ferry, and one-third of the island is a national park. It was time to get our nature on! After dropping our bags at our vintage hotel (the room was a time capsule) we grabbed a quick pizza lunch at the hotel’s restaurant, rented a few bikes, and headed into the park.

Dominated by two strikingly blue saltwater lakes, Malo jerezo and Veliko jerezo, we rode around both, ooh-ing, aahing, and snapping pictures every five feet. The ride was relatively easy after a somewhat hilly start and the lakes were SO FREAKING BEAUTIFUL. After riding some distance, we parked our bikes and took a small boat across the lake to St. Mary’s Island, home to a 12th century Benedictine monastery. This seemed to be the place to eat lunch and swim, however we were hoping for a bit more seclusion. So after exploring a bit, we hopped back on the boat and rode our bikes to a quiet bay. We swam, we napped, we swam some more. I knew this would be my last plunge in Croatia’s water, so it was with a heavy heart when I finally dried off and remounted my bicycle.

After exiting the Park, and returning our bikes, we stopped for a little ice cream and finally made it back to the hotel for much needed showers.

Dinner options on the island were sparse, but we eventually settled on Konoba Nine, a short walk from the hotel. Most of the restaurants here catered to tourists and had almost identical menus, a shame. The atmosphere was friendly (except for another guest’s CRAZY dog) and the views, unsurprisingly, were beautiful.

See: MlJet National Park and St. Mary’s Island

Travel Tips

• Bring an inflatable raft if you plan to spend any time in the water. The beaches aren’t particularly comfortable, and the water is really the place to be.
• Water shoes! We encountered many an urchin and spiny rock while swimming. I hate them too, but I probably would have hated stepping on an urchin more.